Frequently asked questions

The goal of the framework is to serve as a joint reference point for companies working to improve their purchasing practices and for multi-stakeholder initiatives (MSI) supporting their member companies in implementing practical improvements in purchasing, to increase the scope for improved working conditions in supply chains. The framework is the result of a 2-year process between a group of MSIs. These include the Ethical Trading Initiative, Ethical Trade Norway and Denmark, Fair Wear the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles and the Dutch Agreement for Sustainable Garments (AGT). The Working Group also consulted with ACT (Action Collaboration Transformation), Better Buying Institute, Better Work and amfori.

The framework is based on a benchmarking of existing documents and standards of the involved MSIs and others that published recommendations on responsible purchasing. It also integrates key elements from the recent Whitepaper by the Sustainable Terms of Trade Initiative (STTI). The framework has been shared for public consultation and feedback, and those suggestions have been evaluated and integrated where appropriate to produce the updated framework.

With the common framework, we have found a common language. A distinctive feature of the framework is that it is bringing alignment with a wide group of MSIs that share a vision of the supply chain responsibility of garment brands. The framework integrates input from many other stakeholders, through both the documents used in its drafting and the recent public consultation. Therefore, the framework is the product of an extensive collaborative process and seeks to align the understanding of “responsible purchasing practices” in the international playing field and across the involved initiatives.

The second distinctive feature of the framework is that it focuses on real, practical action and changes in companies. Moving forward, the MSI Working Group will be facilitating a ‘Learning and Implementation Community’ for companies who are actively working on improving purchasing practices and wanting to trial new approaches and share peer learning. The Working Group is in discussion with the Sustainable Terms of Trade Initiative, on how to ensure that this stage of activity is carried out in partnership with and with the ongoing involvement of suppliers and their representatives. This will promote and support practical improvements and enable the collation and sharing of good practices and advice for companies at an earlier stage of the journey.

The primary purpose of the document is to give an aligned and practical message on what improving purchasing practices really means in practice, what responsible purchasing looks like and the steps companies can take towards this. This is important and relevant for different stakeholders and the MSI Working Group hopes it will serve as a reference document for them. Companies can also use it as such, as they work to implement improvements.

The framework is a reference point and tool to encourage action and practical solutions. The different MSIs involved will use the framework in their own structures with their member companies. For those who evaluate progress of members, it will mean integrating the framework within their existing systems, and they will work together to ensure this is as aligned as possible. Others will use it in their mentoring and support approach, using the framework to guide companies that aim to make improvements.

One key next step after releasing the full version in response to the consultation, will be the dissemination of it and enhancing its uptake. The group of MSIs is discussing how to best join forces on this and how to go about measuring the uptake of the framework.

Now that the consultation is completed and the MSI working group has released the updated version of the framework, the group will be discussing this point moving forward. However, at this stage, it is expected that reporting will likely be in the form of case studies and stories about what companies are doing to improve purchasing practices, using the framework as a reference point, rather than data on whether companies are adhering to the framework.

The way we anticipate the framework will make a difference in purchasing practices, is by providing companies with an aligned approach to what responsible purchasing practices look like and what is needed. The ‘Learning and Implementation Community’ will encourage and support companies to implement responsible purchasing practices through a ‘peer learning’ approach and will further refine the framework’s practical applicability.

The framework will make a difference as it has created a common language and an aligned approach which we hope to contribute to a common understanding of what constitutes responsible purchasing practices taking into account key recommendations of suppliers (by integrating key elements of the STTI White Paper).

The involved MSIs will individually integrate the framework into their ways of working with their members. This is a 2-step approach: (a) defining together what constitutes responsible purchasing practices and developing the reference framework (b) each organisation integrating it into their own structures.

Having a joint framework will facilitate exchanging information among MSIs to avoid duplication.

The framework contains groundwork and progress practices which provide a roadmap for companies to take concrete actions to implement and improve towards these practices, from whatever stage of the journey they start at. The involved MSIs will individually integrate the framework in their ways of working with their members.

The Industry We Want has developed annual impact metrics for the garment industry on wages, purchasing practices and GHG Emissions and is wanting to encourage industry-wide progress in each of these areas. The initiative further acts as a ‘big tent’ and features different activities in each of its three focus areas, to encourage collaboration and progress. As part of its work on purchasing practices, the STTI White paper and CFRPP are both ‘spotlighted’ by TIWW, to foster alignment and accelerate change.

TIWW purchasing practices metric is based on The Better Buying Institute’s Partnership Index Survey. These questions cover all of the topics in the CFRPP on a general level. However, the metric uses reflections of suppliers' subjective experiences on the impact of brand partners' purchasing practices on their operations. As such, the survey is not a checklist to gather feedback on brands’ implementation of each of the principles and the more detailed groundwork and progress practices of the CFRPP. The survey also goes further in posing questions related to brand behaviour on monitoring and remediating worker complaints.